Dermaplane, Explained by the People Who Do It

You lean toward the bathroom mirror in the afternoon light, and there it is. Foundation catching on the soft fuzz along your jaw. A dry patch by your nose that no amount of moisturizer seems to reach. Your skin is not doing anything wrong. There is just a layer sitting on top of it that is in the way.
That layer is exactly what dermaplaning is for. Below, our estheticians walk through what the service removes, what it feels like on the table, who should wait, and the honest answer to the question we hear more than any other: will the hair grow back thicker? The short version first. Dermaplane is a 30-minute service at $75, and for most skin it is one of the simplest ways to make everything else you do work better.
What does dermaplaning actually take off?
Two things. The first is the outermost layer of dead skin cells, the dull, slightly rough film that builds up faster when the Fresno air turns dry in the fall. The second is vellus hair, the fine, pale fuzz most people have on the cheeks, jaw and upper lip.
Your esthetician holds the skin taut with one hand and draws a small, sterile blade across it in short, light strokes with the other. It does not cut into the skin. It glides across the surface and lifts what is already ready to come off. On the menu it reads the way we would explain it at the table: it removes dead skin cells and fine facial hair, and it reveals smoother, brighter skin underneath.
That is the whole idea. Nothing is being burned, peeled or resurfaced. Your skin is simply clear of the things that were sitting on top of it.
Will the hair grow back thicker?
No. This is the question almost every first-time guest asks, usually a little nervously, so here is the plain answer. Vellus hair grows back the same texture and the same color it was before. Removing it at the surface does not change the follicle underneath.
What people sometimes notice is the regrowth itself. A hair that was cut at the surface has a blunt tip for a while instead of a tapered one, so for a few days it can feel slightly different to your fingertips. It does not look darker and it does not come back coarser. Most guests find the fuzz returns gradually over the following weeks, softly enough that they forget about it until their next visit.
We would rather say this clearly than let anyone worry about it. No hard sell here: if your skin does not need this service, your esthetician will tell you so.
What happens in the room
Your visit starts the way every visit here does, with Aveda's comforting tea and a warm neck wrap while you settle in. Then you are in the treatment room, where it is quiet and the light is low.
Your esthetician starts by asking a few questions about your skin, what you are using at home and anything that has been bothering it lately. We treat that conversation as part of the service, not a formality. Your skin is cleansed and completely dried, because the blade works best on clean, dry skin with nothing on it.
The dermaplaning itself is surprisingly calm. Most guests describe a light, soft scraping sensation, closer to the feeling of a fingernail tracing the cheek than anything sharp. You might hear a faint whisper as the blade passes. It takes a short while, area by area, around the cheeks, jaw, chin, upper lip and forehead, while the eyes and lips are carefully avoided.
Then the part guests remember: a cool towel pressed over the face, followed by a moisturizing toner spray. After the light scraping, that cool towel feels wonderful. You sit up, touch your cheek, and it feels smooth in a way that is hard to describe until you have felt it.
Why makeup and skin care sit better afterward
This is the reason many of our guests book it again. With the dead skin and fuzz out of the way, foundation and tinted moisturizer lay flat instead of catching and clinging. Powder does not settle into a fuzzy patch along the jaw. Guests who wear makeup often say the difference shows the very next morning.
Skin care benefits too. A serum or moisturizer that used to sit on top of that dull film can now reach the skin it was meant for. That is why we like pairing dermaplaning with a hydrating product at home. You have just cleared the path, so it makes sense to give the skin something good to drink.
We recommend a small routine here, not a cabinet full of products. A good moisturizer and a daily sunscreen do most of the work after this service.
Who should skip it, or wait?
Dermaplaning is gentle, but it is still exfoliation, and some skin is better off waiting. Let your esthetician know before your visit if any of these apply to you, and we will adjust the plan or suggest a different service.
Our licensed estheticians would always rather move an appointment than work on skin that is not ready for it. That is What's Best For The Guest in practice.
- Active, inflamed breakouts. Passing a blade over raised, irritated blemishes can spread irritation. We would rather calm the skin first.
- A fresh sunburn or very irritated skin. Give it time to settle before any exfoliation.
- Strong prescription skin care. If you use a prescription retinoid or another strong exfoliating product, tell us when you book. Your esthetician may ask you to pause it for a few days beforehand.
- A recent peel or other exfoliating treatment. Space them out so your skin is not doing double duty.
On its own, or with a facial?
Both work, and the right choice depends on what your skin is asking for. Dermaplane on its own is 30 minutes and $75. It is a quick visit that fits into a lunch hour, and it is a good choice when your skin is generally happy and you mainly want that smooth, makeup-ready finish.
If your skin also feels tight or thirsty, the way it often does once the weather turns, a facial gives you more. A Pure Hydration Facial 60 Min is $155 and is built for dehydrated skin, with Aveda's hydrating treatment masque, custom exfoliation and Comfort Zone's Hydramemory cream, plus a hand, arm, decollete and foot massage. A Elemental Nature Facial 60min is $135 and is customized to your skin's concerns. Many guests book dermaplaning on the same visit as a facial, so ask the front desk to schedule the two together.
Not sure which to choose? Tell us what is bothering you about your skin, and we will recommend one by name.
What we tell our friends
Book it a few days ahead of a big event, not the morning of. Most skin looks its smoothest after a day or two, once it has settled and had a couple of nights of good moisturizer.
Skip the scrubs and strong exfoliating products for the first few days afterward. Your skin has just been exfoliated, so it does not need more. Be generous with sunscreen, too, because freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the valley sun, even in the fall.
And come back in a few weeks if you loved it. The smooth feeling fades as the skin naturally renews itself, and many guests like to keep it going on a regular rhythm. Your esthetician can suggest how often makes sense for your skin.
What we use and sell
Hydramemory Rich Sorbet Cream
$86.00 · 50 ml
A rich, vegan moisturizer that gives freshly exfoliated skin deep, lasting moisture, which is exactly what it wants for the few days after dermaplaning.
In stock at the salon
Questions we hear at the desk
Does dermaplaning make facial hair grow back thicker or darker?
No. The fine, pale hair on your face grows back with the same texture and color it had before. For a few days the regrowth can feel slightly blunt to your fingertips, because the tip was cut at the surface, but it does not look darker and it does not come back coarser.
Does dermaplaning hurt?
Most guests say it does not. It feels like a light, soft scraping, closer to a fingernail tracing your cheek than anything sharp. The blade glides across the surface and does not cut into the skin. It finishes with a cool towel and a moisturizing toner spray, which most guests find very soothing.
How much is dermaplaning, and how long does it take?
Dermaplane is $75 and takes 30 minutes, so it fits easily into a lunch hour. If your skin also feels dry or tight, you can book it on the same visit as a facial. Ask the front desk to schedule the two together so you are not making a second trip.
Can I wear makeup after dermaplaning?
Many guests do, and they often say makeup goes on more smoothly than it has in months. If you can, give your skin a few hours first. Skip scrubs and strong exfoliating products for the next few days, and wear sunscreen every day, because freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.
If your makeup has been catching or your skin just feels dull under your fingertips, a 30-minute visit may be all it needs. We are at 5054 N Palm Ave in Fig Garden Village, open seven days a week, with free parking and no meters. Tell us what is bothering you about your skin, and our estheticians will tell you honestly whether dermaplaning is the right fit.
559-224-2667 · 5054 N Palm Ave, Fresno
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